By DAVID KAUFMANNew York Times, 9 March 2008PUEBLA may be home to classic Mexican dishes like mole poblano, but there’s more to do in this wealthy city than just eat. A two-hour drive from Mexico City past snow-capped peaks and volcanoes, Puebla, a city of some 1.3 million people, is chock full of colonial treasures, cafe-lined squares and a vibrant arts-and-crafts culture. The large historic center has been designated as a World Heritage Site by Unesco, new hotels are springing up, and airlines now offer easy access from the United States. But if your main obsession is food, Puebla won’t disappoint. This crayon-colored city is still considered by many to be the gastronomic capital of Mexico.Friday5 p.m.1) WHEN IN PUEBLAAs in every Mexican town, Puebla’s soul is the zócalo, the center of the old city, in this case the Plaza de la Constitución. This rectangular slice of colonial Mexican cosmopolitanism is bordered by arcaded walkways and anchored by the sprawling Catedral de Puebla, which dates from 1575. Outside, the cathedral is dominated by a pair of towers rising nearly 230 feet. Inside, its crypt betrays Puebla’s status as one of colonial Mexico’s wealthiest towns, with statues of saints and angels intricately carved from onyx, one of the city’s numerous natural resources. Gaze skyward above the cathedral’s elaborate octagonal altar; the tiled dome ceiling is modeled on that of St. Peter’s Basilica.8 p.m.2) NUEVO MEXICANThe new Purificadora hotel blends the city’s historic past — an 18th-century ice factory — with a thoroughly contemporary design by the Mexican pioneering architect Ricardo Legorreta. The colorful hotel is not only drawing stylish guests, but also hungry hipsters eager to try the nuevo-Mexicano restaurant (Callejón de la 10 Norte 802; 52-222-309-1920; www.lapurificadora.com). Overseen by the Mexico City chef Enrique Olvera, the restaurant fuses the European with the Mexican: corn risotto spiked with poblano peppers; chipotle peppers stuffed with cheese in a black bean broth; corn cakes with lime and cream cheese gelato. Dinner for two is about 900 pesos, about $82 at 10.99 pesos to the dollar.10 p.m.3) ALL NOCHE LONGAfterward, follow the stylish crowd to La Terraza, Purificadora’s rooftop bar, with its slender pool and prime views of Iglesia de San Francisco, a 16th-century church. After midnight, the party moves to La Boutique (Final de la Recta; 52-222-482-0603), a split-level nightclub with a grinding dance floor and cozy leather banquettes. On your way home, stop by Taquería los Ángeles (Avenida Juan de Palafox y Mendoza, Local 608-B; no phone) for the traditional late-night snack of tacos árabes (about 85 pesos for two).Saturday10 a.m.4) ANCIENT STAIR MASTERThe tiny town of Cholula, a few miles from Puebla, is known for two things: the great pyramid and its claim to have 365 churches — one for each day of the year. The pyramid (Zona Arqueológica del Gran Pirámide de Cholula; 55-222-247-9081), which was built in the second century B.C., is comprised of seven stacked trapezoids and is a third larger than the Great Pyramid at Giza. You can climb the massive exterior staircase or tunnel through its endless antechambers and barren tombs.11.30 a.m.5) POPO PEAKAt the very top of the pyramid is the Iglesia de los Remedios, a 16th-century church built by the Spanish to commemorate the conversion of the Aztecs to Christianity. While the church itself is not grand, the views of snow-covered Popocatépetl, among Mexico’s most-active volcanoes, are well worth the trek. On the way down, try a cup of popo — a frothy, murky brown drink made from rice, cocoa and chupipi, a regional fruit shaped like an avocado.1 p.m.6) CURIOUS QUESADILLASThe Mercado de Cholula, the town’s covered food market (Camino Real a Cholula and 20 Norte), is an action-packed nexus of butchers, fishmongers, vegetable farmers and spice sellers. Arrive hungry and skip the taquerías. Instead, grab a seat at one of the quesadillerias near the market’s rear. The corn tortillas (about 22 pesos) are thick, oblong and purple and are filled with stringy white cheese, colorful zucchini blossoms, dark huitlacoche (a mushroom that grows on ears of corn) or flecks of chicharon (fried pork skin). Stands nearby sell just-made pico de gallo and fruity juices for an easy lunch. Before leaving, pick up a packet of spicy mole paste for back home.3 p.m.7) MAYA TO MODERNAlthough it may lack the grand museums of Mexico City, Puebla’s Museo Amparo (Dos Sur 708, Centro Histórico; 52-222-229-3850; www.museoamparo.com; free admission) actually has one of Latin America’s finest collections of Mexican art. Housed in a pair of colonial buildings from the 17th and 18th centuries, Amparo’s collection spans from 2500 B.C. through the present, and includes pre-Hispanic, colonial, modern and contemporary Mexican artists.5:30 p.m.8) MEXICAN MOJITOSEase back into modern-day Puebla with a menjul, a Mexican version of a mojito prepared with rum, sugar and mint. Order one at Bar Los Portales at the Hotel Royalty in the zócalo (Portal Hidalgo 8; 52-222-242-4740.). The street-front patio makes for excellent afternoon people watching.8:30 p.m.9) LIKE DINNER FOR CHOCOLATEThe highlight of any visit to Puebla is its namesake dish: mole poblano, the curry-like sauce made with 30-odd ingredients including chilies, cinnamon and chocolate. And one of the best places to taste it is at Mesón Sacristía de la Compañía (Seis Sur 304; Callejón de los Sapos; 52-222-232-4513; www.mesones-sacristia.com). Start with the flash-fried parsley, dusted in sea salt and topped by juicy shrimp. Move on to the signature mole, which comes smothered over delicate slices of chicken breast — rich, spicy and with just enough chocolate to remind you why Montezuma was so smitten with it. Housed in an 18th-century mansion, the restaurant doubles as an antiques shop where nearly everything is for sale. Dinner for two is about 600 pesos. If you like what you eat, the restaurant also offers one-to-three-day cooking classes.10:30 p.m.10) QUé PASA?Drink like a local and try a pasita, a raisin-like liqueur made from the local pasa fruit. There’s no better place to order it than La Pasita (Cinco Oriente 605; 52-222-232-4422), a tiny bar hidden near the Callejón de los Sapos, a popular flea market street. Crammed with bric-a-brac, the bar serves the liqueur in a shot glass, with either goat or panela cheese. La Pasita also serves Rompope — a type of eggnog made by local nuns — along with a clutch of other fiery brews.Sunday11 a.m.11) SESAME CEMITASWhile the rest of the city sleeps in, take a lazy stroll to the Mercado el Carmen (21 Oriente between Dos Sur and Cuatro Sur, the city’s traditional market. This is where locals shop for their mole ingredients and is known for cemitas — Puebla’s version of the Mexican torta. Follow the long lines to Cemitas las Poblanitas, where the sandwiches are made of fluffy sesame-seed rolls filled with meat, poblano peppers, white Oaxacan cheese, avocado slices and chipotles (25 pesos).Noon12) ALLEY OF THE FROGSSunday is antiques day in Puebla, and Callejón de los Sapos (Alley of the Frogs) heaves with dealers, parading everything from fine Talavera pottery to 1950s Mexican movie posters. Continue on to Barrio del Artista (Seis Oriente at Seis Norte) at the Plaza del Torno, lined with artists’ studios that display paintings on the cobblestone streets. If you have energy left, finish off at the Mercado de Artesanías (Dos Oriente at Seis Norte), an 18th-century market that carries crafts from throughout Puebla state, including colorful ponchos and stall after stall of Mexican desserts like dulces de Santa Clara. You won’t find any chocolate there.WHERE TO STAYHoused in an old ice factory, La Purificadora (Callejón de la 10 Norte 802; 52-222-309-1920; www.lapurificadora.com) opened last year across from the Puebla Convention Center and has 26 modern rooms starting at 1,994 pesos, or about $180 at 10.99 pesos to $1.The NH Puebla (Cinco Sur 105; 52-222-309-1919; www.nh-hotels.com), near the historic enter, is a modern, business-friendly hotel from the popular Spanish chain. The 128 rooms start at 1,045 pesos for a double.The Real del Cristo Hotel (Dos Oriente 1007; 52-222-246-1575) is in a charming 15th-century house. The 19 simply designed rooms overlook an airy central courtyard and start at about 400 pesos.
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